`I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence.` - Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate, February 2010

Argiano is many people’s touchstone Brunello. Tucked away in the far south-western limits of Brunello production, away from the main clusters of estates, the late Renaissance hilltop villa of Argiano looks down on its vineyards. Monte Amiata hulks nearby. It’s a spectacular site, with a long history of winemaking – there have been vineyards on this hill for at least 500 years.

Cantina Bartolo Mascarello is one of Barolo’s most revered domaines. It was founded in 1919 by Giulio Mascarello, who had been trained by his father Bartolomeo, the cellarmaster at the Cantina Sociale di Barolo. In a novel move at the time, Giulio borrowed money and started his own winery. In those days it was still relatively easy to acquire great parcels in great vineyards. Giulio was followed by his son Bartolo, who had spent the war years fighting the Germans as a partisan in the Langhe hills.

The rolling hills of Conegliano Valdobiaddene are the heartland, the Classico if you will of Prosecco production. But it isn`t just a monoculture. there are south-facing vineyards interspersed with forests on the northern slopes and meadows and fields in between. Together with the best of integrated pest management systems and no systemic use of herbicides or pesticides the beuaty and care taken over the region has resulted in it`s becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site.

When we first visited Bruna Grimaldi in Grinzane Cavour, we felt we had met a young winemaker of real promise. Simone was doing everything you would want to see. all the vineyards converted to organics in 2014; the new but traditionally appointed winery; modern training, all married to a respect for the traditional culture and wines of Piedmont which comes from being the fourth generation farming these hills.

If Bruno Giacosa is such a great winemaker, why has he only made wine in 16 out of the last 20 vintages? Honesty and integrity are vital elements of quality, and Bruno believed that in 91, 92, 94 and 06 he didn`t have the quality he needed to produce exceptional wines and so he declassified his single vineyard `crus` entirely. That takes both courage and integrity, and demonstrates why Bruno is taken so seriously. Now in his early eighties, this meticulous vigneron has worked in his family`s vineyards and cellars for almost seventy years.

Dott. G. Cappellano is a very singular company. They invented the medicalisation of Barolo with the Chinato and members of the family spent time in north Africa, especially Eritrea and Tunisia researching phylloxera-resistant vines. Teobaldo also began the custom that visiting critics should not score the wines, though they can write as expansive tasting notes as they like. His son and current incumbent Augusto continues that proud tradition. Ignore it and you`ll never visit again.

Castello Romitorio went from Roman fort to monastery to stately home to fort again, all by the Rinascimento. Subsequently it led a shabby life and was completely abandoned after the Second World War. It was purchased, and an attempt at restoration begun in the 1970s, but in 1984 the Chia family bought it. Sandro - a famous artist - was the instigator who first rejuvenated the estate and now his son Filippo has for some time been working to realise the full potential. 2015 is perhaps the year that shows these great vineyards at their best.

Cerbaiona is a name to conjure with in Montalcino. Tucked away in the eastern edge of the commune, this small, favoured estate has long produced some of the most sought-after of any Brunello, from only 3 hectares of old vines. It has been well-established at the head of the pack since the 1980s, but has a much longer history. There have been highly regarded vineyards on this site for hundreds of years - the name ‘Cerbaiona’ was known and sought after before anyone ever asked for a ‘Brunello’.

It is Novello’s premier estate, and a rising star in Barolo - it also sits smack in the middle of the great Ravera cru. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous winery when he already had most of a lifetime’s experience making Barolo behind him; these days, the winery is very skilfully managed by his son-in-law Valter Fissore. Cascina Nuova is a glorious and approachable wine made from a selection of the youngest vines in Ravera; Barolo Ravera is the winery’s calling card, made from some particularly old vines.

Thanks to the Alessandria family, the once under-the-radar village of Verduno has been firmly put on the map. While the family has been making fine Barolos here for five generations, quality has never been higher than now; under the stewardship of current incumbent Vittore Alessandria, the estate`s profile has soared. Vittore can seem like a pretty serious fellow, till he breaks into a huge smile and stops trying to hide the fact he loves what he`s doing. And he`s got reason to be pleased.

The one word to sum up Mascarello would be tradition. Established in 1881, it appears very little has moved on, both with the wines and the family. All the work is done in the vineyards with meticulous attention to detail and in the winery their philosophy has changed little over the last century. There is no chance of them following trends for new French oak or rotary fermenters; they continue to produce wine the only way they know how. In the winery (an old ice house) all the automated stainless steel tanks say ‘emergencia’ on them and even this is ignored!