A granitic territory of hilly outcrops and green valleys given over entirely to Syrah in red wine production, where at its best the wines are fragrant and structured and reminiscent of Burgundy. Whites are famously from Viognier and more discreetly from Marsanne and Roussanne. Cornas is arguably the soul of the region, but Hermitage, around Tain the capital makes the finest wines, both red and white. St-Joseph can be the most variable but can provide good quality and great value. Crozes-Hermitage is very postcode dependant, you need to know your producer and/or where their vineyards are. Cote-Roti is Syrah based, but often a co-ferment with up to 20% Viognier, making the most delicate of the wines, though they are still dark and sturdy. Condrieu is entirely Viognier - an awkward grape. The region is shaped by the Mistral, a fierce and cold wind from the Swiss alps that cools and dries grapes, but drives men mad. A tough place to have a wine domaine. (CW 18/01/11)