Madeira is a fortified wine produced on the eponymous island and made in a similar way to Port, inasmuch as the fortifying neutral spirit is added once the desired level of sweetness has been reached. Five main grapes are involved, usually vinified and commercialised as a single varietal wine. Four of the varieties are each associated with a style, thus Sercial is dry, Verdelho usually medium dry, Bual or Boal usually medium rich and Malmsey or Malvasia usually rich. Sometimes they are blended to great effect. Tinta Negra Mole is the island’s workhorse grape and is used to create any of the styles above in cheaper wines. Warmth, movement and gentle oxidation are considered the keys to Madeira as they recreate the sea voyages that inspired the wine in the first place. Some wines are also aged in solera, as is Sherry. (CW 23/01/12)