The Atlantic coast gives us not just that neglected classic – Muscadet, but the much more acidic Gros Plant, which used to be prescribed for bladder problems. Muscadet can be a brilliant wine but got lost in the UK market in the early 1980s when Kiwi Sauvignon blanc and early Australian dry whites arrived. That is a shame, because the best age well and even young display fine, leesy and vinous character. (CW 23/01/12)