N.V. Barbeito Malvasia 20 Year Old Madeira

Lote 21333100 g/l residual sugar. 550 bottles. Ricardo Diogo Freitas always selects very special inventory for his `lotes` wines. Smells like curry-spice roasted peanuts. Cape Malay curry, and then formidably intense fruit with a piercing vertical lemon-gold warm-fig sweetness. This is playing the piccolo and the violin while an electric guitar plays Van Halen in the background. Thrumming with life. Choisya blossom, jasmine, and earthy spices. Saffron and turmeric. Honeyed quince and lemon. Such an unusual mosaic of flavours, shifting and sifting through the wine. So much here! This is very, very exciting. 19.5 points