Dott. G. Cappellano is a very singular company. They invented the medicalisation of Barolo with the Chinato and members of the family spent time in north Africa, especially Eritrea and Tunisia researching phylloxera-resistant vines. Teobaldo also began the custom that visiting critics should not score the wines, though they can write as expansive tasting notes as they like. His son and current incumbent Augusto continues that proud tradition. Ignore it and you`ll never visit again.

The wines themselves include a range og Barolo from grafted and ungrafted vines. They are classically styled and made without barriques. In fact they are traditional Barolo made with native yeasts and from sustainably farmed grapes. Teobaldo was a controversial and argumentative man who was revered in the region and who believed the production of Barolo was in fact art. He hankered after pre-phylloxera wine and wondered if his Pie Franco came near to iit. This is a magical wine direct-planted on its own roots. Nowadays all the wines are seriously in demand and allocations are tiny. If you see it, you should buy it. (CW 09/10/18)