Cerbaiona is a name to conjure with in Montalcino. Tucked away in the eastern edge of the commune, this small, favoured estate has long produced some of the most sought-after of any Brunello, from only 3 hectares of old vines. It has been well-established at the head of the pack since the 1980s, but has a much longer history. There have been highly regarded vineyards on this site for hundreds of years - the name ‘Cerbaiona’ was known and sought after before anyone ever asked for a ‘Brunello’.

When owner Diego Molinara finally retired after the 2015 harvest, there was widespread concern about the estate’s future. Yet in fomer wine importer Matthew Fioretti, Cerbaiona has found a new owner who aims high. When I visited in 2018, he was busy rebuilding the cellar, from the ground up; we had to walk across planks laid over the bedrock. He had already replenished the barrel stocks. He had planted fava beans among the vines to improve the soil. He was very carefully documenting the state of each vine, and the complex, diverse soils across the vineyard – they are a part of what makes Cerbaiona special. His commitment to both the past and future of the estate is palpable.

Cerbaiona’s privilege as a coveted cru derives partly from its position, next to Salvioni, on a high slope exposed to regular winds rising up from the Val d’Orcia. In an era when many wine regions are struggling with ever-hotter weather, it guarantees the day/night temperature variation essential to make great wine. (NT 30/08/23)