Rioja is one of the wine world`s biggest brands and has changed somewhat over the years, with many efforts to promote the young, unoaked wines that are so antithetical to true Rioja identity. They should be marked by American oak and most still are. Navarra has always looked eastward for the grape varieties for its wine, Somontano is almost French with Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. Toro is on the border of Christian and Muslim occupied areas, and Ribera del Duero can be lovely, complex and elegant. Tempranillo under various synonyms is king grape here. (CW 23/01/12)