The 2022 Gruner Veltliner Loiserberg, from a well-ventilated, elevated loess site, was fermented in stainless steel and wood, but aged completely in wood on lees. The nose is subdued and shows just a little yeastiness. All the excitement happens on the palate, where a rounded, yeasty smoothness wraps itself around a zesty core of freshness, allowing glimpses of citrus to emerge with time. Little sprays of pepper start to play alongside citrus zest notes on the finish, yet the overall feeling here is one of mellow smoothness. (Bone-dry) 91 points