VDP Grosse Lage. Volcanic porphyry and black-grey slate. South-facing. With some of the steepest slopes of the Nahe (40–70%), it`s little wonder that the Klamm shows a stonier side than the more approachable Leistenberg. Refined aromas of citrus and meadow flowers with delicate herbal notions are underscored with a classic stony spice. Youthful indecision reveals billy-goat leaps between fruit, stone and spice and back, without ever losing its balance. Mineral momentum and picture-perfect in a year like 2021. This is Kabinett as only Germany, as only the Nahe, can do. This one is truly only getting started. 18.5 points

The 2021 Niederhauser Klamm Riesling Kabinett is from volcanic soils and comes pure and refined yet intense and spicy on the nose, with notes of crushed stones and salts. Lush and racy on the palate, this is a light yet intense and juicy, piquant and stimulatingly grippy Kabinett that is also a bit too rich for the predicate, but it`s a fascinating Riesling again. 9% stated alcohol. Screw cap. Tasted in July 2022. Drink 2027-2050. 92+ points