It’s partly the fine winemaking, and partly the low availability, and partly the fact that the holdings here are a focussed range of fine Chambolle, but the wines of Domaine Barthod are among the most sought-after we have to divide up en primeur. Even the Bourgogne Rouge (labelled as ‘Les Bons Batons’ in some markets) is a hot ticket, well beyond what you would expect from a Bourgogne Rouge at most addresses. It ages well, and in most vintages it will only be getting into its stride when others of its level have faded.

The defining estate in Nuits-St-Georges. One hundred years after Henri Gouges returned from the First World War and became a pioneer of domaine bottling and a champion of the region, Gouges are going strong. The stewardship of Henri’s great-grandsons Greg and Antoine is winning round a new generation of fans, and these two cousins have had a cracking fifteen years in charge.

Thank goodness the Chauvenet estate isn`t just a few pocket handkerchief size bits of land scattered round the region, because this is another address where the yields are falling year on year at the moment. Despite this, Christophe still has wine to sell. A witty but reserved man with an appealing combination of confidence and humility, his wines, which in some respects pay homage to Henri Jayer, though less obtrusively oaked, continue in the ageworthy mould.

There have been Droins working the Chablis scene for a long time. 14 generations over 400 years, in fact. Over that time, they have amassed a fabulous set of premier and grand cru holdings. Benoît Droin took over in 1999, and has never sat still since. In the vineyard, he improved pruning systems and reduced yields. In the winery, he switched all fermentation to indigenous yeasts, and dialled back on the new oak his father Jean-Paul had introduced.

`Moi, j’aime les vins avec energie, fraicheur, vigueur.` The wines of Joseph Colin are tense and intense, complex and energetic - a little like the man himself. This is still a relatively new domaine, but you`d never know that from the quality of the wines. Since 2016 Joseph has cultivated his share of the Colin family vineyards, six hectares spread across Chassagne, Puligny and Saint Aubin. He resists what he sees as the classificatory straitjacket of biodynamic viticulture, but has nevertheless adopted many biodynamic practices.

Maison, landowner, producer, negociant; Joseph Drouhin make a stunning set of wines from some of Burgundy’s finest terroirs, and apply the very best of modern practice in viticulture and vinification. Their vineyard-focused approach, foregrounding low yields, high density plantings, organics and biodynamics mean all their wines are marked by a strong sense of its individual terroir.

Jadot is a producer of two faces. On the one hand they are one of Burgundy`s largest and most prolific negociant producers, whose wines appear in supermarkets and high street chains in many countries. On the other, they own and farm plots and monopoles in some of the region`s most desirable real estate. Their iconic leader on the winemaking front is Jacques Lardiere, who - shockingly - is obsessed with terroir, rather than easy drinking fruit. His concerns are much taken up with the rock under the soil and making wines with as little intervention as possible.

At Domaine Marc Colin, Damien and his sister Caroline are making some seriously good, high-energy wine. The domaine dates back to the 1970s, and was built from the ground up by Marc Colin and his wife Michele, from vineyards that had been in their families for generations. Two of Marc’s four children have since gone their own ways, taking their share of family vineyards; so Pierre-Yves left to start Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, and Joseph left to start Domaine Joseph Colin. Damien and his sister Caroline stayed in control of Marc Colin.

Meo-Camuzet is one of the most respected domaines anywhere the Cote d’Or. Until 1988, the vineyards were leased out to other vignerons who share-cropped the land, with much of the wine sold off in bulk. But they had some exceptional vineyards and some more than decent tenants, especially one Henri Jayer. Changes to French laws meant that the family would have to start farming their own land or sell it. Rather than lose his family vineyards, family scion Jean-Nicolas Meo accepted a dramatic career change and took the plunge. He moved to Vosne in 1989.