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Burgundy/Beaujolais/Jura
Burgundy/Beaujolais/Jura
A long, thin, disjointed region encompassing three main types of rock, though a multitude of terroirs. There are only four main grape varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Aligoté. In the north Chablis is sited on very chalky clay and produces steely, stony Chardonnay.
You’ll also find a newish appellation of St-Bris, growing Sauvignon Blanc as you might expect only an hour from Sancerre. After a long drive southwest you arrive in the Côte d`Or, or Burgundy proper as we improperly call it. Here is limestone. Vineyard sites classified by monks form a patchwork over the hills to the east of the D974, forming an almost unbroken landscape from the southern suburbs of Dijon’s sprawl to Chagny. South of that, the Côte Chalonnaise is a fragmented region with its wine villages a distance apart from one another.
Finally the Maconnais, plump with value Chardonnay reaches down to Beaujolais and geological change gives us Gamay loving granite in the form of rolling hills. And here we find that Rabelaisian quaffing wine of pleasure, the Beaujolais itself.
There are five classifications of Beaujolais: Beaujolais, Beaujolais Supérieur, Beaujolais Villages, Beaujolais Nouveau and the 10 Beaujolais Crus. As with the rest of Burgundy, the producer's name on the bottle is often the most important factor.
Pagination
- Marc Colin
At Domaine Marc Colin, Damien and his sister Caroline are making some seriously good, high-energy wine. The domaine dates back to the 1970s, and was built from the ground up by Marc Colin and his wife Michele, from vineyards that had been in their families for generations. Two of Marc’s four children have since gone their own ways, taking their share of family vineyards; so Pierre-Yves left to start Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, and Joseph left to start Domaine Joseph Colin. Damien and his sister Caroline stayed in control of Marc Colin.
- Meo-CamuzetMeo-Camuzet is an unrecognisable Domaine from what it was thirty years ago and Jean-Nicolas is evolving in harmony. In the early eighties the Meo family were more or less running the estate as absentee landlords. Jean-Nicolas said that at that time Vosne was a holiday home. They had some exceptional vineyards and some more than decent tenants though, especially one Henri Jayer. Changes to French laws meant essentially that the family had to start farming their own land or would have to sell it - not an appealing prospect.
- Michel GrosMichel Gros went straight from Beaune Viticultural High School in 1975 to work with his father Jean in the family wine business. He is the 6th generation of the Gros family to make wine since his Great, Great, Great Grandfather settled in Vosne-Romanee in 1830. At one stage the family owned 2 ha of Richebourg and 3 ha of Echezeaux, since diluted amongst descendents. After receiving his own parcel of 2 ha from his father in 1979, Michel continued to acquire various parcels in Burgundy while simultaneously looking after the family business.
- Michel Lafarge
Auditioning to be a location in the last Harry Potter opus, the atmospheric, black mould-covered cellar with its low ceiling houses some of the best wines of the area. Lafarge is undoubtedly one of the finest Cote de Beaune producers. They craft pure and understated wines, real terroir-driven Burgundy, made as it always has been without any great fuss or marketing noises. Only 20% new oak is used on many of the wines as purity of fruit is vital to the operation.
- Paul & Marie Jacqueson
Jacqueson remains one of the very best domaines in the Chalonnaise, and has a huge domestic following; their wines adorn the list of many of France`s finest restaurants. Based in the village of Rully, the domaine is these days managed by third-generation sister and brother team Marie and Pierre. It`s no wonder the Jacquesons` wines are so good; their fruit come from wonderfully-sited vineyards which they only work by hand, using minimal treatments. Cellar work follows a low-intervention regime, with the judicious use of new oak.
- Philippe Colin
It’s hard to avoid the Colin family when you are in Chassagne-Montrachet. Philippe Colin was born into the Colin-Deleger estate, and when his parents retired, Philippe split the vines with his brother Bruno. He set up his own domaine in 2004, out of modern premises on the outskirts of Chassagne-Montrachet. He has always aimed for a style of wine which is elegant and subtle rather weighty and powerful.
- Rene Bouvier
For many people at least part of Burgundy`s appeal is the ancient, cobweb-laden cellars filled with dubious looking barrels and mouldy ceilings. But you`ll find Rene Bouvier`s modern unit in a Zone Artisanale near the Super-U between Gevrey and Fixin. Glamorous? Not exactly. Filthy and decrepit? Certainly not. But are the wines any good? Mais Oui!
- Robert ChevillonDomaine Chevillon dates all the way back to the early 1900`s, when Symphorien Chevillon started working 30 acres of vines in Nuits-Saint-Georges. As the Domaine passed down through the generations; their land expanded as they purchased plots in multiple premier crus. Now, over one hundred years down the line, the Domaine is run by Denis and Bertrand and is world renowned for producing wines of finesse and complexity.
- Sigaut
Anne and Herve Sigaut took over at this domaine thirty years ago, and have been playing the long game ever since, making classic, refined Chambolle-Musigny. They destem all their grapes, which puts them very much in line with neighbours like Barthod and Bertheau, follow the lunar calender, and plough by horse. They have some wonderfully sited old vines. Their Chambolle-Musigny comes from 10 plots across the village. From behind the church, Derriere le Four (planted in 1973) makes a dark, robust wine, where Chatelots is plush.
- Taupenot-Merme
There have been Taupenots and Mermes making wine in Burgundy since as far back as the seventeenth century, and sitting at the head of eight generations of winemakers, Romain Taupenot-Merme was probably always destined to be a winemaker himself. But he started off in finance, and did very well for himself. However, in 1998, at his father’s request, he returned to the family domaine, and in due course took over.
- Tessier
In 2005 Arnaud Tessier was catapulted into the driving seat when father Michel died and he and partner Catherine were forced to take responsibility at the domaine with no notice and relatively little experience. Michel used to sell almost everything to negociants, including fairly classy ones like Verget, and they still sell some fruit in bulk. Thankfully they are retaining more and more fruit for themselves.
- Thomas Morey
Lean, vibrant, high-energy – just like the man himself. The wines of Thomas Morey belong in the same stylistic mould as those of fellow growers Bernard Moreau and Paul Pillot. And while he is new to the Uncorked portfolio, Thomas is not new to Chassagne-Montrachet – there have been Moreys here since 1643. He learned his craft at the side of his father Bernard, and over time developed a very clear winemaking signature all his own.
- V Dureuil-Janthial
He is widely hailed as the most outstanding producer anywhere on the Cote Chalonnaise, as adept with Pinot Noir as with Chardonnay. As some Burgundy prices spiral, his remain modest. We often spot other winemakers drinking his wines in restaurants when we visit the region. So why isn’t Vincent Dureuil-Janthial getting wider attention?
- Vincent and Jean-Pierre Charton
In Mercurey, Vincent Charton finds himself at the head of a renaissance, rescuing the village from the reputation it once held for `rustic` wines. Vincent’s wines are all about finesse and energy, and they proudly showcase the potential and variety of the terroirs here. Together with his father, Vincent cultivates 11.5 hectares of Pinot Noir. The ethos is minimal intervention. They use natural yeasts in the winery and restrict barrel aging to no more than 30% new oak for between 8 and 10 months.