One of Burgundy’s most celebrated domaines. It began with Jacques Seysses, who had apprenticed with Gerard Potel at Domaine de la Pousse d’Or. In 1967, Jacques bought a small domaine in Morey-St-Denis and named it after himself – ‘du Jac’. (Geddit?) His first vintage was the terrible 1968, and he sold it off in bulk. But 1969 was a great success, and that vintage put Dujac on the map. The domaine began to grow with the opportunistic acquisition of some great parcels.

Domaine Felettig has an origin story you hear time and again across Burgundy (and more broadly, across much of France and viticultural Europe). Grape cultivators gradually become landowners in their own right, and sent their grapes to the village co-op until someone (in this case, Henri Felettig) took the dramatic decision to begin estate bottling. Over time, family holdings increased. In 1993, the next generation took over, with Gilbert handling the winemaking and his sister Christine administering the domaine.

It’s partly the fine winemaking, and partly the low availability, and partly the fact that the holdings here are a focussed range of fine Chambolle, but the wines of Domaine Barthod are among the most sought-after we have to divide up en primeur. Even the Bourgogne Rouge (labelled as ‘Les Bons Batons’ in some markets) is a hot ticket, well beyond what you would expect from a Bourgogne Rouge at most addresses. It ages well, and in most vintages it will only be getting into its stride when others of its level have faded.

The defining estate in Nuits-St-Georges. One hundred years after Henri Gouges returned from the First World War and became a pioneer of domaine bottling and a champion of the region, Gouges are going strong. The stewardship of Henri’s great-grandsons Greg and Antoine is winning round a new generation of fans, and these two cousins have had a cracking fifteen years in charge.

Thank goodness the Chauvenet estate isn`t just a few pocket handkerchief size bits of land scattered round the region, because this is another address where the yields are falling year on year at the moment. Despite this, Christophe still has wine to sell. A witty but reserved man with an appealing combination of confidence and humility, his wines, which in some respects pay homage to Henri Jayer, though less obtrusively oaked, continue in the ageworthy mould.

`Moi, j’aime les vins avec energie, fraicheur, vigueur.` The wines of Joseph Colin are tense and intense, complex and energetic - a little like the man himself. This is still a relatively new domaine, but you`d never know that from the quality of the wines. Since 2016 Joseph has cultivated his share of the Colin family vineyards, six hectares spread across Chassagne, Puligny and Saint Aubin. He resists what he sees as the classificatory straitjacket of biodynamic viticulture, but has nevertheless adopted many biodynamic practices.

Maison, landowner, producer, negociant; Joseph Drouhin make a stunning set of wines from some of Burgundy’s finest terroirs, and apply the very best of modern practice in viticulture and vinification. Their vineyard-focused approach, foregrounding low yields, high density plantings, organics and biodynamics mean all their wines are marked by a strong sense of its individual terroir.