Morey-St-Denis is a fine bit of the Cote d`Or that flies under the radar of many people, overshadowed by Gevrey and Nuits, amongst others. Perhaps it was because in 1936, when they were handing down the Grand and Premier Cru classifications that the then owner refused GC status in case he had to pay more tax! Clos des Lambrays has found its place since then of course. And under Thierry Brouin has a director of immense prowess and great humility too. There have been fine vintages when he hasn`t looked particularly happy about the wines so when he looks as pleased as he did with the 2008s, for instance, you just know they`re gonna be good. They were and set the tone for Morey`s being my eventual favourite commune in 08. As always here the wines are suave, the tannins fine grained and beautifully fruited.