For many people at least part of Burgundy`s appeal is the ancient, cobweb-laden cellars filled with dubious looking barrels and mouldy ceilings. But you`ll find Rene Bouvier`s modern unit in a Zone Artisanale near the Super-U between Gevrey and Fixin. Glamorous? Not exactly. Filthy and decrepit? Certainly not. But are the wines any good? Mais Oui!

And that is the other problem Rene has - he makes delicious wines. Not a trace of hair shirt or having to wait for the wine to come round, these are great drinking from the off. Of course they will age very nicely, but their silky structure makes them moreish to say the least. (CW 02/10/14)