Cos, Gloria/Saint-Pierre, Ducru, Durfort, Haut-Brion/La Mission, Chevalier, Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Haut-Bailly, L’Eglise-Clinet, Beau-Sejour Becot, L’If
No fewer than 28 significant releases since our update last Friday means we’re now at the end of the campaign except for Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin. Predictably, the number of in-demand wines is fewer than the last 3 vintages and some of these have been allocated during the week.
Monday saw the penultimate release from St-Estephe, the velvety and age worthy Cos d’Estournel. On Tuesday came the Triaud family’s Saint-Pierre and – notable for its value in the commune – Gloria. Ducru-Beaucaillou wrapped up the campaign for St-Julien on Wednesday, Bruno Borie’s 2021 garnering much acclaim and being likened to some of the chateau’s greats from the past. Gonzague Lurton topped off the Margaux on Tuesday: his Durfort-Vivens, 30% raised in terracotta amphorae, finally seems to be getting the attention it has long deserved.
Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion and Domaine de Chevalier have all produced some stunning wines this year – in both red and white, and they completed the Pessac-Leognan campaign following the release of Smith-Haut-Lafitte and Haut-Bailly at the start of the week.
On the right bank, the Durantou family have produced a beautiful L’Eglise-Clinet which looks set to rival Pomerol’s best in this vintage. Finally, to St-Emilion. Beau-Sejour Becot is much improved under the guidance of consultant Thomas Duclos – and is still looking good value. It’s a little over a decade ago that the Thienpont family started at L’If and the quality has changed almost beyond recognition. In 2021, for the first time, Guillaume and Alexandre worked the vineyard and oversaw the vinification and their 2021 is highly recommended. /AR
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2024
