Durfort-Vivens had a good 19th century. The 1844 was priced higher than any other Margaux wine except Chateau Margaux itself. Commentator, wine connoisseur and future American president Thomas Jefferson rated Durfort-Vivens alongside Lafite, Latour and Margaux. The 1855 classification placed it as a second growth. Things weren’t so good through most of the 20th century. In the 1930s, it was bought by Margaux and used to make that chateau’s second wine. In the 1960s, it was sold on to the Lurton family, but without its chateau. For decades after, it struggled with makeshift winemaking facilities, and its reputation sagged. It wasn’t until the 1990s and the arrival of Gonzague Lurton that things took a turn again for the better.

The vineyard has always been distinctive, with a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon– 85 percent – than almost anywhere in the Medoc. That is a reflection of the very gravelly soils, which naturally suit Cabernet more. The success of Gonzague’s early experiments with organic and biodynamic viticulture led to Durfort-Vivens being the first Margaux property to become fully biodynamic. Where Durfort-Vivens led, Palmer followed. Biodynamics is a punishing approach, especially in the maritime climate of Bordeaux, and it can be very costly in terms of yield – but quality has soared. Gonzague has also become an apostle for clay amphorae and their value in bringing a fresher, purer style to the wine. Durfort-Vivens is raised in up to 70 percent amphorae against 30 percent barrel. Dominated by a veritable terracotta army, his cellar looks very different from most Bordeaux cellars.

And since Gonzague arrived, the cellars and winemaking facilities have gone through two full cycles of overhaul and modernisation. Has it all been worth it? Gonzague thinks so, and recent vintages of Durfort-Vivens have been stunning, easily at the top end of their appellation. The style is pure Margaux - finesse and elegance over sheer power. (NT 18/08/23)