2021 Bordeaux: Ascension Day

Angludet, Pontet-Canet, Palmer, Langoa/Leoville Barton, Berliquet, Laroque, Cruzelles et al

France is on holiday today celebrating Ascension Day, so we expect a pause in Bordeaux en primeur releases till next week. But in the last ten days several of our favourite properties have appeared. From Margaux, we had Angludet; owner, resident and winemaker Ben Sichel has been making serious qualitative headway over recent vintages with the adoption of biodynamics and a cellar revamp. Pauillac gave us overperforming fifth-growth Pontet-Canet, Margaux riposted with Palmer and its Alter Ego.

2021 is a lovely vintage for Leoville and Langoa Barton. St-Julien swerved the frost that made the start of the season difficult at many addresses, and the vintage also saw the inauguration of the Bartons' new winery: the introduction of a range of smaller vessels has enabled a more responsive, parcel-by-parcel approach to vinification, and more precision in the wine. 2021 also marks the 200th year that Langoa Barton has been in the Barton family, and this is being celebrated with a special label.

St-Emilion property Berliquet might well take the crown for most improved chateau in recent vintages. Nicolas Audebert freely admits that when the Wertheimer brothers acquired Berliquet in 2017, the intention had been to roll the vineyards into their neighbouring Chateau Canon. Happily, they realised Berliquet had an identity (and a soil base) all its own. Instead they began a comprehensive restructuring of vineyards and cellar. Also from St-Emilion, we have had David Suire's excellent Laroque. And still on the right bank, we had the always charming, always good value Durantou wines: Saintayme, Cruzelles, Montlandrie and Chenade. /NT

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Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2024