A powerful trend-setter, pioneering in its early adoption of biodynamics, over the last twenty years Fifth Growth Pontet-Canet has soared into the league of Super Seconds. Alfred Tesseron and Estate Director Jean-Michel Comme have unlocked the potential of this chateau whose vineyards abut those of Mouton-Rothschild, and the wines of Pontet-Canet demand serious respect, and time in your cellar.

Jean-Francois Pontet was an eighteenth-century Governor of the Medoc. His descendents expanded the eponymous estate into the prestigious Canet section of Pauillac, creating the portmanteau Pontet-Canet name, as well as what is still today one of the largest vineyards in Pauillac. It was awarded Fifth Growth status in 1855, and the great negociant of the day Herman Cruse bought it in 1865. It remained with the Cruse family for another 110 years, until it was acquired by Cognac magnate Guy Tesseron. At that point, the vineyard was in poor condition and required extensive replanting. But quality didn’t really start to soar here until Alfred Tesseron took over in 1994, crucially with Technical Director Jean-Michel Comme at his side. Monsieur Comme is an evangelist for biodynamics, and Pontet-Canet began trialling biodynamics in 2004, earlier than at any other Bordeaux classed growth. They are now 100% biodynamic, though it is far from easy in the damp climate of Bordeaux (and they took a huge hit to yields in the mildew-stricken 2018 vintage).

The vineyards span 81 hectares, mostly in one big sweep. Overall, they are planted to 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. There are deep gravels in the soil in the section near Mouton-Rothschild, where all the vines are Cabernet, while as the vineyards reach down to the river there is much more clay, and those vineyards are mainly Merlot. Much of the vineyard is now ploughed by horse, which do not compact the soil in the same way tractors do (though unlike tractors, they do sometimes eat the grapes).

The same questing, experimental approach that has innovated in the vineyard also informs the winemaking and cellar management. Fermentation takes place in a combination of wooden vats and egg-like concrete tanks. 50% of the wine is aged in new French barrels, 25% in year-old barrels, and 25% in 900-litre amphorae, which are said to supply freshness and keep the fruit bright and vivid. (NT 12/08/25)