2025 Prager Gruner Ried Zwerithaler Kammergut

The 2025 Gruner Veltliner Ried Zwerithaler Kammergut Smaragd comes from ancient vines that were 118 years old that year. Although Gruner appears on the label, tiny portions of other varieties, such as Gouais Blanc, are present on southeast-facing terraces. The shy nose offers tender stone fruit, a touch of woodruff and little else for now. The palate, however, is a well of savor, with profound umami saltiness aligned with mouthwatering zestiness. This combination is totally appetizing and irresistible. It is like an essence of stone. If this were food, it would be called hyperpalatability. Whoa. 99 points