Vineyards planted in 2011 and 2012. Fermented in concrete, aged on lees in stainless steel and old oak. A far cooler vintage than 2022. A little more restrained than 2022, but still the acidity is ripe and vibrant – peaches and baobab fruit. Stunning length, and a little prickle of rosemary. More stony in the middle (than the 2022), but starburst luminosity and asterism. Kaleidoscopic. Bevan Newton Johnson’s Albarino goes from strength to strength. 17.5 points