2023 Greywacke Wild Sauvignon (Marlborough)

Savoury, smokey and saline, the 2023 Wild Sauvignon is taut and tense, almost un-Marlborough-like, but over the course of 24 hours it reveals passion fruit and elderflower notes. If you haven`t got that sort of time on your hands, pull out the decanter. The wine`s sophistication comes not from its flavours but its shape and athletic acid profile. The texture intrigues with its focus and push-and-pull tension. The lip-smacking, medium-long finish is drawn out with smokey and floral talc as well as classic passion fruit and elderflower. Young but eminently drinkable, this has the concentration and structure to go on for a decade or more. Another success story for this bottling. 93 points