2022 Jonathan Pabiot Pouilly-Fume Aubaine

A cuvee from calcaire, says Jonathan, and in Pouilly-Fume that usually means Portlandian (or Oxfordian if you prefer), and that is the case here, the vines on the hard limestone of Tracy-sur-Loire. The elevage here was in concrete cuve, with one year on the lees. This follows the rather perfumed theme running through the 2022 vintage chez Pabiot, with notes of white peach, red apple and lychee, which translates onto a fragrant palate filled with plump redcurrant, lychee and honeysuckle flavours. More significantly, reflecting its firmer and more focused origin, I find a nice grip and bitterness here, and some acids too, giving it an attractive length. Still, this has an overtly aromatic style, but with freshness. The alcohol on the label is 12.5%. 90 points