2019 S & B Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Riserva

A recurrent question with amply aged Italian classic reds like Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino is whether or not the extra ageing stipulations in place for the Riserva categories are truly necessary; it can often seem as if younger versions have the edge on older, ‘grander’ wines, since they show brighter fruit structures. This 2019 Riserva illustrates the benefits of extra age. It’s pale, now, with some gentle bricking at the meniscus; the aromas are refined and harmonious, packed not just with red fruits but with autumnal warmth and oak-copse charm, as if the wine was evoking the landscape in which it came into being. On the tongue, it’s still quite grandly structured and clearly has further development ahead; look behind those succulent if ample tannins, though, and you’ll find beautifully articulated fruit supported by deft redcurrant acidity. Grand Barolo from this outstanding vintage. Best in Show. 97 points