(from the estate`s oldest vines, in the heart of the cru, according to Roagna) Good medium red. Captivating aromas of redcurrant and musky brown spices, complicated by pungent smoky minerality and marzipan. Fat, creamy, minerally and rich, with an almost decadent sweetness but also good inner-mouth tension to the plush, broad middle palate. Wonderfully seamless Barbaresco with building, echoing soil tones on the finish. There are just 1,500 bottles of this juice in 2008 but close to 20% of them will come to the U.S. market. A knockout. 95 points

As is often the case, the 2008 has a little more tannic spice and pure energy than most of the other Barbarescos in Luca Roagna`s range. Here the flavors are bright, finely sculpted and totally alive in the glass. Pine, mint, crushed rocks, wild flowers and dark cherries all flow through to the firm, slightly clenched finish. Of the 2008s that Roagna has released so far, the Montefico is among the wines that will require the most patience. 95 points