2023 Burgundy: Meursault, St-Aubin

2023 Burgundy: Meursault, St-Aubin

Ballot-Millot, Jobard, Tessier, Marc Colin, Joseph Colin

The central Cote be Beaune is where white Burgundy truly comes into its own. The French vision of Meursault is beurre et noisettes, butter and hazelnuts, though there is a generation of younger producers who like to emphasize the soulful mineral intensity the hillside terroirs can impart. St-Aubin lies down a side valley, and used to be thought of as a poorer cousin; but in an era of global warming, its cooler terroirs are excelling.

In Meursault, Arnaud Tessier's has made some fabulous 2023s; they are in his signature racy style, but shot through with flashes of ripeness, reflecting the vintage. Jobard remains a longstanding reference point for fine white Burgundy. Over the close-to-twenty years he has been in charge, Antoine Jobard has been fine-tuning the family style of long, restrained elevage. And we love the wines of Charles Ballot-Millot; they are both deep and charged with energy. It's also worth noting that while he is primarily a white-wine maker, his reds can also be swooningly lovely.

Brothers Damien and Joseph Colin both make top-end expressions of the underrated terroirs of St-Aubin. They learned their craft side-by-side at the family Domaine Marc Colin. Damien is at the helm of Marc Colin, while Joseph now manages his own domaine, but they remain close, both personally and in winemaking style. If anything, Joseph's wines lean more into tension and acidity. Either way, the poise in the wines at both these domaines is remarkable. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold. For shipment Winter 2025. To place an order, click on the wines below or call 020 7638 5998