Between Laroque and La Hard Place
'Tasting the 2020s was a real joy - not least because so many producers are defying hot, dry years with delightfully fresh, expressive, 'new old' wines.' - Jancis Robinson, All Change in Bordeaux, jancisrobinson.com
'Change has been afoot. And you can now taste it in the wines.' Jancis Robinson has been admiring the great developments sweeping Bordeaux (and beyond) over the last decade. In an article in last Friday's FT and on jancisrobinson.com, she describes how the region's winemaking focus has moved out of the cellar and into the vineyard - and how beneficial this has proved. 'Wines are generally becoming much fresher and more expressive of the vineyard… These 'new old' wines delightfully combine the classicism of traditional Bordeaux with modern winemaking and vine-growing sophistication.'
We have seen several releases this week that capture just what she is talking about. From the left bank, it's a hats-off to the Bartons for their hugely impressive 2020 Leoville Barton, bursting with blue fruit, cedar and spice; classic St-Julien. And this morning we had Basile Tesseron's Lafon-Rochet - with yields down and developments at the estate exciting big interest, that flipped straight to sold out. We do still have stock of the excellent Larrivaux, which is owned by Basile's wife Berangere, and where the great Eric Boissenot consults.
Across the estuary, from one of the most cool and exposed spots in St-Emilion, Laroque enjoys a natural freshness and will amply reward some aging. Also from St-Emilion, de Ferrand is a property we've had our eye on for a while - Professor Colin Hay has flagged it as 'one to watch'. The Bich family originally made their fortune with the Bic biro, and acquired the estate for its sheer beauty; but generational change has brought a new awareness of its viticultural potential, and since 2009 Philippe Chandon-Moet has been guiding a sweeping programme of investment and improvements. Abutting Ausone, we have two Vauthier family properties: La Clotte stands at the gate of St-Emilion, while Moulin St-Georges lies just down slope of Ausone. Both benefit from the same wisdom behind Ausone itself. Finally, it has been a great year for Fronsac, and Les Trois Croix, de la Dauphine and Dalem all offer plentiful points for modest money. /NT
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Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2023
