Juice and freshness running through this, with a velvety texture and sense of momentum. Violet reflections, touches of chocolate and rosemary spice, still the savoury fruit that is typical of the vintage, clearly concentrated, but well balanced overall. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. A yield of 42 hl/ha. 40% new oak. HVE3 certificated with one organic control plot. 93 points

This Pessac-Léognan has been a little inconsistent of late. The 2020 Carbonnieux, matured in 35–40% new oak, has a slightly subdued nose despite giving it ample aeration, blackberry, mint and light floral aromas gradually unfurling. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine acidity, crisp blackberry and wild strawberry fruit and a slightly chalky finish. It is traditional in style, but that is not necessarily a bad thing, and I find there is more persistence on the finish compared to the recently tasted 2018 in bottle. This is a return to form. 90-92 points

Sporting a deep purple-black color, the 2020 Carbonnieux opens with notes of tar, dark chocolate and licorice, giving way to a core of stewed black plums, cassis and blackberry compote, plus a waft of smoked meats. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers mouth-coating, juicy black fruits, supported by firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing savory. 91-93 point

Dark purplish crimson. Aromatic with a hint of pyrazines. But no obvious lack of ripeness on the palate until the very end, which is just slightly pinched. But this is a classic Graves. Not for those who seek opulence but very refreshing – and it may well age rather well. But I suspect it may always be slightly austere. 16.5 points