Plenty of sappy, well defined juice running underneath the moody tannic frame, but you need to look away right now because this is closed and subdued. Blueberry purée and a limestone scrape helps build momentum through the mid-palate - give this time. David Suire manages the winemaking. 92 points

The 2020 Laroque is a blend of 99% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, aging for around 16 to 18 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. The alcohol is 14.5%. Displaying a deep purple-black color, it slowly unfurls in the glass to reveal fantastically opulent notes of Indian spices, rose oil, dark chocolate and licorice, over a core of blueberry preserves, stewed plums and mulberries, plus a hint of dried mint. The medium to full-bodied palate is packed with layers of black and blue fruits, accented by exotic spices and supported by a racy backbone and velvety tannins, finishing long and perfumed. Gorgeous. 94-96 points

Deep crimson but not impenetrable. Mellow, rather unflashy nose with well-integrated acidity and a certain mineral element. Really lively and fresh and rather sleeker than some of the more exhibitionistic St-Émilions. Obviously a long-term, and rather exciting, bet. Bone-dry finish and a fair amount of ripe tannin but not lean or drying, and with a persistent, silky finish. Rather sophisticated. 16.5 points