2020 Berliquet (St-Emilion)

The 2020 Berliquet put in a phenomenal showing in this blind peer-group tasting that suggests I underestimated it out of barrel. It has a more savory bouquet than its peers, perhaps due to more Cabernet Franc, with touches of mint, black pepper and dried herbs infusing the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well balanced and harmonious, leading to a precise, complex and lingering finish. It seems to gain precision in the glass and tempts you back for more. Outstanding. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. 94 points

Clean and effortless in style. Delicate summer-fruit notes with a hint of mint. Juicy and fresh with chalky tannins and dry finish. Eminently digeste comme on dit en France, innit. 16.5 points

A persistent nose of blackberry-ripe fruit; concentrated, vital in acidity, quite firm in tannin; long and ripely tasty, both fine and chewy at once, and with excellent length. You can taste the more clayey terroir here of Berliquet’s `Cote`; there is more matter than in Canon (made by the same team) and less finesse. That said, this is very good. Drink 2028–40+. 90–92 points