Things haven't changed much at Leoville-Barton since I picked grapes there straight out of university in 1993. Although we didn't see him this year, Anthony continues to live at the chateau and so this is still very much a home as well as a working winery, just like so many of the very best properties. Although it's had a coat of paint, there are no new vast underground cellars here, nor glass-walled tasting rooms, let alone stainless steel watchtowers. Lilian may have taken the reins from Anthony but the philosophy remains the same. This is traditional claret in the best possible sense: no mucking about, no gimmickry but true to itself, true to the terroir and true to the steady hands of the Barton family who've guided it through the generations.

Although a newcomer by Barton standards, the genial Patrick Maroteaux shares many of the same traits at Branaire-Ducru. Although the cellar has been fully modernised since Patrick bought the chateau in 1988, his intention is to craft a very fine, classical St-Julien. He achieves just that and, what's more, generally pitches it at a very attractive price. This was one of my favourites in the commune this year, regardless of price.

With the release of Leoville-Poyferre this afternoon we now have all of the appellation's big names except for the two most illustrious ones. Didier Cuvelier assumed control of his family's chateau in 1979 and has seldom put a foot wrong. The best vintages are marked by a flamboyance, exoticism and spiciness which (until you get to know him) seems at odds with Didier's character. Although this wasn't among my absolute favourites this year, I suspect it'll turn out rather well after bottling.

Olivier Bernard looked very chuffed when we met him, as well he might, having made what he regards as the best Domaine de Chevalier white of his career. And whether the critics agree or not they still all give him top scores. It is the dry white of the vintage for me and has a remarkable mineral character and balance as well as a delicious texture. If this doesn't wean you off Montrachet nothing will. The red too is a perfumed and tender effort; very ripe and supple, and serious but complete and beautifully balanced.

For a more affordable Graves, we head south-east of Leognan to the little town of Martillac, and to its only constituent of the 1959 Graves classification. Latour-Martillac occupies an excellent site - a gentle, east-facing slope on the east side of town. Although rarely seen in the UK, the property has a loyal following and usually sells out en primeur. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and the balance Merlot, the red has lovely dark, gravelly fruit and great freshness. The white, made from 70% Sauvignon Blanc, is fermented in barrel, aged on its lees, and is bottled 2 years after harvest. The 2014 has fruit, density and vitality. Owned by the Kressman family since 1930, with input from Denis Dubourdieu, Latour-Martillac is making wines to rival the big names of Leognan - but for much smaller prices. /AR