N.V. Hambledon Vineyard Premiere Cuvee

A blend of 73% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Noir, 3% Pinot Meunier, mostly from the 2013 harvest with barrel-aged reserve wines from 2010. Dosage 2 g/l. Aged for at least 46 months on lees. Mid straw colour with admirable depth of flavour and some obvious evolution already but still very zesty and refreshing. Complex and satisfying. 17 points

Hampshire Chalk from Ian Kellet’s ambitious regeneration and expansion of one of England’s oldest vineyards. Hervé Jestin is the winemaker. It is worth trading up to this over the Classic Cuvée at the moment. This is pretty stern, but there`s a lot going on. Lots of grapefruit Chardonnay with almond pastry richness and some floral, aromatic notes coming from somewhere. Feels quite developed with some wet wool and stone, but there`s enough red apple friendliness to offer some balance too. Quite serious. 90 points