2023 Lafarge Passetoutgrain L`Exception

Passetoutgrains is the Burgundian appellation that demands a mix of Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes. The name L’Exception evokes the exceptionally old vines here – 95 years. They are planted between the limit of Meursault and the generic Bourgogne appellation; Frederic Lafarge notes they lost fruit this year to one of the season’s very localised hailstorms. The fruit is lovely, generous and floral, midway in style between Pinot and Gamay (and it’s a 50/50 blend of the two). There’s a little bit of thyme and marjoram that put this just on the slightly wilder side of Pinot Noir. (NT 11/12/24)