The 2023 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru plays with a clever reduction on the nose, still working better than the Montmains. Flinty and smoke notes come through with aeration. The palate has impressive weight, slightly honeyed in texture, maybe lower in acidity than the 2022 but it fans out beautifully on the finish. Very seductive. You`ve been warned. 92 points

From the Vaupulans sector. White marl gives the flesh to this wine, where Benoît has now slightly toned down the oak component to 35%. Pale colour. The bouquet is quiet with just some white orchard fruit, softly fleshy on the palate and showing some wood, as is always the case while this wine is young. 89-91 points