Domaine Huet’s 2023 Clos du Bourg Sec bottling is also excellent. The wine is deep, complex and beautifully focused on the nose, wafting from the glass in a mix of quince, apple, a touch of pink grapefruit, complex, chalky soil tones, lanolin, beeswax and a topnote of gently musky white flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and shows a bit more mid-palate weight than the Le Haut Lieu and Le Mont Sec bottlings in 2023, with sound acids, excellent balance and grip and fine lift on the long and complex finish. It will not be criminal to open a bottle or two of the Clos du Bourg Sec 2023 in its early days, but if one buys a case, make sure to tuck at least nine of the bottles away for the long haul. 94 points

The 2023 Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg Sec is a bit muted at this stage, but this tasting is only three weeks after bottling. It`s also closed on the palate and needs time to come around. This isn`t where it ought to be. The concentration is there, and the classic amplitude and curves are there with a super line and frame, but it just needs to get over its bottle shock. I`m going to come back to this wine in a couple of months.