The 2022 Chardonnay Rays Road is restrained and reticent. It`s certainly not a fruit bomb of a Hawke`s Bay Chardonnay with its pithy precision, slightly salty, flinty character and buzz of nervous acid tension. Rays Road is generally less opulent than most, and the austerity seems to be a character of the site, particularly from the first few vintages. Nevertheless, full malo and 11 months on lees adds texture and padding to the mid-palate. Pear, honeysuckle and melon fruit ally with subtle spiced cedar, which nods to the older French barrels used for fermentation on the medium-long finish. 91 points

Newer clones 548 and 15 plus limestone character shape this wine which sees hardly any new oak. They will be planting virus-free Mendoza and will eventually eliminate the Sauvignon Blanc that was originally planted in this vineyard for Trinity Hill. Very pure and lively, lifted nose. Very unmistakably NZ with just a touch more simple acidity than the other Kumeu Chardonnays. A little chew on the end. Finish is not that persistent. 16.5 points