2021 Pichon Comtesse Reserve (Pauillac)

The 2021 Reserve de la Comtesse is still tight-lipped on the nose despite rigorous coaxing, notes of graphite percolating through the black fruit. I feel that in another vintage it would give me more. The palate is medium-bodied and more expressive than the aromatics at the moment, quite concentrated in terms of its black fruit, with touches of graphite and black pepper that fan out succinctly toward the finish. It will get another point…if the nose just opens out with bottle age. 89+ points

The 2021 Resèrve de la Comtesse offers up aromas of sweet berry fruit, blackcurrants, petals and classy new oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and impressively concentrated palate that`s framed by lively acids and beautifully refined tannins. It`s a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 11% Petit Verdot, and Nicolas Glumineau tells me that some wine was sold off in bulk this year to guarantee the quality of the Resèreve. It`s certainly among the best second wines of the vintage. 89-91 points

Savoury blue fruit, nice balance, concentrated through the mid palate, soft tannins that have been carefully handled to emphase the fruit. 14% press wine. 15hl/h yield (after the Merlot in particular was impacted by mildew and unevent fruit set). First year of organic conversion. 40% of overall production in this, 50% new oak for ageing. 87 points

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse is a seriously great wine in its peer group. Or any peer group. Rich and layered, with no hard edges and compelling balance, the 2021 opens beautifully in the glass. Savory accents run through a core of black cherry and plum fruit, with hints of gravel, spice and leather that develop later. This year`s blend includes 14% reserve wine, but that is not especially evident. I don`t think I have ever tasted a more refined Réserve de la Comtesse. Superb. 92-94 points