The 2019 Ormes de Pez has an intense bouquet of blackberry, bilberry and a touch of hoisin, but none of the smoky elements that I commented upon from the barrel sample last year. Nicely delineated and certainly less rustic than past vintages. The palate is finely tuned with a touch of bitter cherry on the entry, quite peppery, and a little stricter than I expected at the moment, leading to a granular, almost truffly finish. 92 points

Plenty of punch in this Ormes de Pez, full of rich ripe black fruits, traces of exotic spices of cinnamon and saffron from the heat of the summer, and brilliant value if looking for personality and appellation signature in St Estèphe. Blend completed with 3% Petit Verdot. 93 points