2018 Suduiraut (Sauternes)

Complex, almost savoury aroma of oak spice, botrytis almond paste and mealy barrel effect. On the palate, intense in flavour, powerful, spicy, more power than seduction. 17 points

The pale to medium lemon-gold colored 2018 Suduiraut comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of candied peel, warm pineapple, guava and key lime pie with hints of orange marmalade and beeswax. The palate is packed with power and richness, with mouth-coating tropical fruits and a long earth-laced finish. 93-95 points

Unusually this is 100% Semillon in this vintage, with 125 g/l residual sugar and an acidity of 3.8 g/l. Half the crop went into the second wine, including all the Sauvignon Blanc, so this is a small-volume production this year. It has a rather rich, polished, sweet and lightly roasted character on the nose, tinged with some lightly smoky and minerally elements. The palate is fresh, supple, broad, polished and plump, with a slowly building acid freshness at its core, all wrapped in toasted yellow plum, praline, and grilled peach fruits. This is substantial, with a solid weight and it is a rather supple acidity which serves to provide balance, energy and freshness. Delicate, fresh, with a charming poise and gentle acidity, nevertheless it is in a richer style than many in 2018, here calling to mind a more successful vintage. 93-95 points