The 2017 Suduiraut was picked via three tries, with 75% of the crop picked in the second tries from 4 to 15 October. The harvest finished on 19 October, one of the last in Sauternes and after Yquem. “We were touched by the frost but not in the top terroir,” winemaker Pierre Montegut told me. It is matured in around 50% new oak. It has an expressive, harmonious bouquet with dried honey, white flowers and a touch of gripe water (a children’s medicine for those in the United States. I have been informed there is no equivalent on the other side of the Atlantic). The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, well judged acidity, plenty of botrytized fruit with a long, lightly spiced finish that feels so fresh and vital. This is a superb Suduiraut from Pierre Montegut and his team. 94-96 points

Preignac. 90% Sémillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc. RS 140 g/l, TA (sulphuric) 3.9 g/l. Complex aroma ranging from pineapple to rosemary/mint and everything in between. Fat and full in the mouth, fills every corner but draws in to a fresh persistent finish. Lip-smacking. 17.5 points

The 2017 Suduiraut has a compelling brininess to the nose with a core of lemon curd, lime cordial and green mango with touches of musk perfume and chalk dust. The mouth is very rich and packed with decadent layers, with just enough freshness and great length. 93-95 points