2017 Mate Brunello di Montalcino

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino takes some time to blow off its youthfully reductive state, as sugar-dusted black cherries and savory herbs emerge from an air of white pepper and crushed stone. This is remarkably juicy and lifted in character, matched by a vibrant wave of red berries that coasts along the palate with ease, giving way to inner rose and hints of licorice. A coating of fine tannins lingers, nicely balanced by a bump of residual acidity that maintains freshness. The 2017 should only require minimal cellaring to show its best, though it may benefit from a decanting to help its aromatics blossom. 90 points