San Restituta is a highly desirable corner of Montalcino, known for its fine terroir and expressive wines. The complex, fossil-rich soils lend themselves to the making of serious wines, as do the sea breezes on this side of Montalcino. Just ask the neighbours – the family-owned Mate estate is situated between those of Gianfranco Soldera and Angelo Gaja, two titans of the Italian wine scene whose wines can command prices of hundreds of pounds per bottle.

Ferenc Mate has never been a man to do things by half. When he first set up Mate, he employed the best consultants in the region to help lay out vineyards and choose clones. The vines are planted in the sort of high density that forces them to compete with each other, and so give their best. Three annual green prunings concentrate flavour and perfume in the grapes. Cellar work is ‘new traditionalist’. (NT 07/10/21)