2017 Castello Romitorio Brunello Filo di Seta

The remarkably fresh 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta opens slowly, blossoming in the glass to offer a captivating mix of dusty rose, spicy citrus, black cherry and smoky crushed stone. This is cool-toned yet powerful in feel, fleshing out across the palate with an elegant display of mineral-tinged tart berries under an air of sweet florals, as fine tannins settle in. It turns quite savory and slightly salty through the finale, tapering off with unprecedented length, along with a staining of primary concentration offset by residual acids that keep the mouth watering. Mixing the most delicate and vivid fruit with the body of a well-muscled dancer, this leaves me very impressed. The 2017 Filo di Seta is one of the top wines of this difficult vintage. 94+ points