Wet stone is signaled on the nose, accompanied by pungently zesty intimations of piquant grapefruit peel and pit-inflected apple. The palate displays sappy concentration, palpable density and faint oiliness, but underlying firmness. A tart, prickly hint of gooseberry on the seriously sustained finish adds to the combined sense of invigoration and austerity. 89 points

Mainly from the Leistenberg, the 2016 Nahe Riesling Trocken "Tonschiefer" is Dönnhoff`s "designer jeans" wine. It opens with a pure bouquet with lovely cool, piquant aromas of wet slate and ripe white fruits. On the palate, this is a juicy-piquant, clear and fresh Riesling with exquisite purity and lingering salinity on the finish. It is fresh and very stimulating in its bright and elegant fruit. The finish is quite powerful. 90 points

Argillaceous schist sounds like a right mineral mouthful, but the Tonschiefer does not restrict itself to slaty austerity. Fleshy white peach and crunchy fruit peel enter into an inspired alliance with vibrant acidity to produce a cool and fresh expression that takes the sting out of trocken. 16.5 points