2014 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Fine red robe. The nose is nicely reserved, holds gracious red berry fruit at its centre, has bright wings, a rocky sidecar. It is a subtle affair, and there are hints of flowers, pressed flowers, violets. The palate gives a close link to the nose, a belle liaison. This runs with an aromatic outer and a steel-inspired inner, shows its place in a more punchy finale. It is nice and natural, an intriguing wine, with the late grain crunch of the galet stones well delivered. Its content is secure, poised. The finish is varied and stimulating, has red jam and baking. Pretty complex wine. From 2019-20, for example, no hurry. 4.5 stars

Compared to 1981 by Daniel, the flagship 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape appears to be a charming, mid-weight effort that has a medium ruby color, pretty aromas of raspberry, spice and spring flowers, and an elegant, medium-bodied profile on the palate. The tannin quality is high, but I can’t help feeling it lacks fruit and depth. It will be interesting to see how this comes together in bottle. (88-90 points)