2014 Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan)

Haut-Brion is more concentrated and intense than Mission Haut-Brion, more bedded down even at 10 years old, and somehow delivers an extra punch. Absolutely a materclass in controlled exuberance, this has concentrated cigar box, graphite and cocoa bean, touches of mandarin peel, bitter espresso and fennel, well-controlled tannic frame but so well delivered, it`s hard to resist. Jean-Philippe Delmas estate director, Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director. 96 points

The 2014 Haut-Brion is forward and intense on the nose. Blackberry mixes with cranberry fruit, incense and black olive compote, slightly ferrous and becoming spicier with aeration. It coheres very nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, expressive and fleshy, and somewhat savory with cooked meats and brown spices on the finish. Impressive, but moving into the secondary phase. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting. 94 points