2014 Michel Lafarge Volnay Mitans

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Mitans has a slightly more rustic bouquet compared to the Beaune Greve, a light marine influence becoming more evident during aeration. The palate is very well balanced with supple, ripe red cherry and strawberry fruit, here with hints of dried orange rind and quince. Good body and structure on the finish, this rugged but engaging Volnay will have long term potential, if not quite the finesse of the finest crus from Lafarge. 90-92 points

Hail-affected yields were still down at this iconic domaine in 2014, but the quality is undiminished. This comes from a bony-soiled vineyard with classic, chalky finesse and red fruit sweetness, supported by a nip of tannin. Classic Volnay. Drink 2017-24. 95 points

(from Mitans proper, not l’Ormeau). A wonderfully fresh, elegant and airy nose displays cool notes of ultra-pure essence of red pinot fruit that is cut with attractive floral and spice nuances. There is almost laser-like precision to the more intensely mineral-driven and more refined middle weight flavors thanks in large part to the very fine grain of the supporting tannins, all wrapped in a lingering and balanced finale. This lacy effort is textbook Mitans. 90-92 points