The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Chateau des Ducs has a very pure bouquet that needs time to awaken in the glass. red cherries, touches of bergamot and pressed flowers. Perhaps I am just looking for a little more complexity here. The palate is very well balanced with quite thickset tannins that lend this palpable weight and an almost Pommard-like structure. It feels broad-shouldered on the finish and perhaps needs a little more flesh to come through. 90-92 points

Just a few metres away from the Lafarges’ cellar, this is a real clos with four walls still standing. Showing subtle oak, old vine concentration and the filigree tannins that are part of the house style here, this is sweet, gentle and elegant with fresh acidity providing a little backbone. Drink 2017-25. 95 points

(from 50+ year old vines; a monopole of the domaine). The more deeply pitched though still strikingly elegant nose features notes of pure and enticing essence of dark berries along with plenty of earth and floral-related nuances. There is an almost pungent minerality to the sleekly muscular yet refined medium weight flavors that possess excellent punch and delineation before culminating in a mildly austere and highly persistent finish. A classy effort that should amply reward mid-term cellaring. 91-93 points