2014 L`If (St-Emilion)

The 2014 L’If has a dense, sultry nose at first, touches of salted liquorice infusing the black, almost tarry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet but firm tannin, a core of ripe, almost sorbet-fresh fruit, orange rind tincturing the finish. I find this actually improves in the glass, developing more sappiness with time although I would have liked more persistency on the aftertaste. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. 92 points

The best vintage yet from Le Pin`s St Emilion outpost, this has the lightness of touch that distinguishes Jacques Thienpont`s winemaking. Aromatic, stylish and fine, with effortless balance, filigree tannins and a long, textured finish. A property to watch on the Right Bank. 94 points