2014 Lafon-Rochet (St-Estephe)

Here is one of the finest silent revolutions ongoing in a Medoc classed growth. Unrecognisable since 2013, this wine has reached a hitherto unequalled level of aromatic and tannic precision. Remarkable softness on the palate. And what a burst of fruit! Impossible to spit out. Bravo! 92 points

The Château Lafon-Rochet 2014 is a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot picked from 1 October until 15 October. Basile Tesseron explained that there was 25 and 35mm rain between 7 and 9 October at which point the Cabernet was not able to ripen further due to the lack of water. This gave the ripeness another spurt and destroyed the pyrazines. Pumping over was about 0.5 to 1.5 the volume per day over a long period to avoid extracting any harsh tannin (especially from the seeds) with a short cold maceration. It has a complex bouquet. brambly black fruit, touches of dark plum mixed with black olive and incense. The palate is medium-bodied with fine t annin, crisp acidity, a little chalky in texture with a precise, quite pointed finish. This 2014 continues a run of fine form for the estate. 90-92 points

Aromatic and floral, with hints of violet, rose petal and graphite, this is one of the more charming Saint Estèphes in 2014, with plenty of sweet blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, fine-grained tannins,a lift of acidity and sensitive oak handling. There`s good underlying stuffing, too. 93 points