In a sense Bordeaux is like the Football League, where the arrival of a wealthy owner combined with bringing a retired superstar manager out of retirement can transform the fortunes of an estate. So it is here, as the Bouygues (think Ch Montrose) squillions combine happily with the skills and subtlety of Jean-Bernard Delmas – late of Haut-Brion to make the most of the fantastic gravel soils. This is a property where the Merlot and Petit Verdot have formed a majority coalition, keeping the Cabernet Sauvignon in a minority and the result is a wine of depth and finesse. (CW 21/05/10)